After leaving Kinsale, the golf club stayed packed as we journeyed up to Dublin.  We decided to leave the rental car in Cork, where we would hop on a train for a three-hour ride into the country’s bustling capital.

Blarney Castle, with the namesake stone atop the tower.

But before dropping the car, we made an obligatory tourist stop at Blarney Castle, where, yes, we stretched backward and kissed the famous Blarney Stone, thus giving me the gift of eloquence to write this piece.  But really, the grounds of the castle are beautiful, and there is a lot more there than just the stone.  There is a section that was believed to be the home of Druids, with some stone ancient stone circles used for who knows what.  There are ponds and waterfalls, and some eery stories about the “witch’s stone,” the “witch’s kitchen,” and the “wishing steps.”

The train ride from Cork to Dublin was pleasant, very similar to taking an Amtrak, and when we got into Dublin Station, it was easy to grab a cab to our hotel.  Pulling into the Shelbourne, we knew we were in for the best lodging experience of the trip.  A true five-star experience, this Marriott property is one of a kind.  Just off Saint Stephen Green, there is not a better location in the city’s center than here.  There is shopping all around, and culture at every turn.  By the recommendation of our cab driver, we found a terrific, non-tourist pub down the street, O’Donahues, that had live music set up in the corner at almost all times.  With the Guiness factory taking up almost the entire northwest section of town, it is necessary to plop down and enjoy a pint that is as fresh as possible and is as good as beer gets.

Library at Trinity College, which hosts the Book of Kells.

There is so much to do and see in Dublin, and we took advantage of the hop-on, hop-off tour bus.  It got us up into Phoenix Park, larger than New York’s Central Park, with a full-scale zoo and where the Irish President and the American Ambassador both have residences.  We did the tour at the Guiness factory, which was fascinating even for the non-beer lover.  We got back near the hotel and went to Trinity College to view the Book of Kells, which was as magnificent as the 40-minute line would have you predict.  From the recommendation of the terrifically helpful staff at the Shelbourne, we ate some delicious meals and said our peace to the trip ending with some masterfully crafted drinks at The Horseshoe Bar, the elegant lounge just off the lobby.

The fact is that this might have been a trip predicated on golf, but Ireland offers so much more.  To experience the country in any sense, you have to leave the links and engage the people, embrace their warmth and openness.  Then you can leave knowing that the golf will always be there, and will always be spectacular.  But that cross section of comfort and discovery is what makes Ireland unique, and makes it so special.

Ballybunion.